Cairngorm Reports
(Sponsored by
Talisman Winter
Mountaineering updated
03/12/2004)
To shorten download time the previous Cairngorm reports have been
archived on 31st March 2004 here
For full weather details see Geoff Monks weather reports for the East
Highlands here or
West here
(Adobe PDF reader required)
1st December 2004...A bright frosty day with
the Cairngorm's glistening white in the sunshine as seen from the plane!
Thursday looks the same but the hoped for high pressure area (for the
coming weekend) is now looking unlikely to happen. Virtually all forecast
charts now indicate a progression of depressions passing north of
Scotland, bringing frequent upland gales, and rain and showers in across
most parts of Britain – but especially to Scotland. Generally mild. See
Geoff Monks forecast
:-(
30th November 2004...There's been wet snow on
the Cairngorms since Saturday but the temperature are still surprisingly
high with only slight overnight frosts during the past few days at lower
levels. There's been some drifting on southern slopes and certainly more
snow depth than last weekend. The turf is only slightly frozen on the
highest tops and is very soft, oozing and mushy in many places. The
forecast looks promising with the freezing level lowering and more snow
forecast...
23rd November 2004...Wet and mild. On Monday
over 5,000 visitors visited this page directly with only 3,000 visiting
the main homepage and it's link to some great climbing pictures on the
MacMountaineerings page. If you missed out you can view the page by
clicking
here >>>
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| Northern Corries 20th
Nov 04 |
Bynack Mor 20th Nov 04 |
20th and 21st November 2004...Saturday was a
classic windless blue sky and sunshine day. The temperature at my house
was minus 9 and well below zero throughout the day on our trek into Glen
Avon. The ground was fairly well frozen although the peat bog monster
could occasionally be heard (slurp!) The light covering of dry powder snow
sparkled in the sun. Overall the snow cover was VERY thin and cosmetic
with no deep drifts to be found or seen on Cairngorm or Bynack Mor. After
a bitterly cold night in our bothy Sunday dawned windy with frequent
sleety showers and large pressure drop... At around 12.30 the winds
increased dramatically blowing me off my feet and within ten minutes the
temperature had risen significantly. By the time I had returned to
Glenmore at 15.00 hrs. most of the snow had melted from the Northern
Corries...
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| Northern Corries 19th
Nov 04 |
Loch Morlich sunset |
19th November 2004...Still very cold but with
little significant snowfall. This is good news as it will allow the ground
to freeze well...though this takes some time at the start of the season as
the ground is initially frozen on the surface only and easily damaged. The
Northern Corries have a DUSTING of snow on the crags and scree scarp
slopes. The north facing gullies are bare rubble... Today I put snow tyres
on the car for our hill walk and bothy trip at the weekend... Some people
will no doubt be scratching around...
18th November 2004...Colder with a light
dusting of snow in my garden at Slochd (400 metres) The Cairngorms and
local hill are patchy white again. A lot more than a cm or two is required for proper
winter sport...
5th October 2004...It's turned a lot colder
with light snow on the hill tops over the past few days. The forecast for
the coming week is for even lower temperatures and overnight frosts. So is
this the start of a good winter?
18th June 2004...This is the last update until
the start of next winter.
With mid-summer almost upon us most of the old
snow has gone in the Northern Corries and it is now possible to get to the
foot of Savage Slit and Hells Lum to rock climb without an ice
axe...however it's been snowing on the summits today and there are still a
few large patches on the plateau!
16th May 2004...Enough snow for a bit of
extreme skiing today...see WinterHighland
here
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| Northern Corries
12th May 2004 |
12th May 2004...Most easy gully line are now broken although large
areas of old snow remain on plateau and corrie headwalls.
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| Northern Corries
7th May 04 |
Coire an Lochain |
Coire an t_Sneachda
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| Hells Lum (snow
apron/cornice) |
Shelterstone (dry
rock) |
Ski touring to Ben
MacDui |
7th May 2004......Believe it or not on Friday
many easy gullies such as Jacob's, Aladdin's, Central, Couloir and Y
Gullies were still complete and offering good sport.
The rock was also warm and dry for rock
climbing away from any snowmelt. Great cover in Coire an Lochain and on the Cairngorm plateau for ski
touring to Ben MacDui as well as for snowholing....!
14th April 2004...Easy gullies such as Jacob's
and Aladdin's still complete also very good cover in Coire an Lochain and
on the Cairngorm plateau for ski touring and snowholing. There will be no
further reports for the next few weeks as we're off to warmer climates...
:-)
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| Coire an Lochain |
12th April 2004...A very early start and
finish before 10.00am made the most of the overnight drop in temperature
to give reasonable climbing on firm snow.
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| Jacob's Ladder
12/4/04 |
11th April 2004...Spring snow conditions today
although the easy gullies such as Jacob's are in really good condition.
Some climbers in around the trident area. The ski and climbing areas were
again surprisingly quiet with the Coire Cas carpark only quarter full at
10.00am. It turned out quite a pleasant day with sunburnt faces later!
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| Aladdin's-Fluted
Buttresses |
Fiacaill from Windy
Col |
10th April 2004...Easy gullies still complete
but buttresses now very black and snow soft by late morning after an
overnight frost...still some ice about to play on though. Good spring snow
conditions for skiing after mid-day with no queues despite a very busy
Coire Cas carpark and ski passes for £18.00!
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| Coire Laogh Mor |
Northern Corries |
8th April 2004...An overnight frost and beautiful sunny morning saw us
walking in to Coire an t-Sneachda to climb Spiral Gully before the
forecast warm front arrived around mid-day. Thanks to Donny for the trail
breaking, hope Pygmy Ridge was good and Andy, hope you enjoyed the direct
finish to Spiral...I think I've almost mentioned everyone in the Corrie
today! The ski area carpark was very busy but very few walkers or climbers
seem to be in the corries.
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| Northern Corries &
Loch Morlich |
Aladdin's Trident &
Fluted |
Fiacaill Buttress |
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| Ice pitch on Spiral
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Mixed top pitch on
Spiral |
Coire an Lochain |
The snow conditions were surprisingly good if thin in the upper section
of Spiral until mid-day despite the past few days of fresh snow. Red Gully
had some good ice but Goat-track Gully was just rimed rock. The rime was
falling off the rock and crampons were balling up as we left for home at
noon.
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| Ice in Red Gully |
5th April 2004...Aviemore was very busy today
due to the Easter break yet we had Coire an t-Sneachda literally to
ourselves. Despite reservations due to the heavy blustery and sleety
showers in Speyside Cairngorm was relatively calm with the odd wintry
shower of graupel and fleeting sunny spells. The fresh snow cover is quite
thin so we had an easy late afternoon walk in to the climbs. We climbed up
Central Gully which had the odd patch of easily avoided graupel on
excellent firm old snow. There was the odd tricky rock / ice step to keep
us amused and little in the way of a cornice to worry about at the top. We
descended Aladdin's Couloir which had a fun ice pitch at the narrows. The
ice was a lot thicker than expected and would certainly take ice screws.
Unfortunately the normal ice routes such as the Mirror Direct were non
existent and the crags fairly black. Most of the easy gully lines such as
the Runnel, Spiral, Aladdins and Jacob's are complete although thin in
places making them slightly harder than normal...! Generally the build-up
and condition on the easier gully climbs is about the best it's been all
season.
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