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Cairngorm Reports

(Sponsored by Talisman Winter Mountaineering updated 16/02/2007)


To shorten download time the previous Cairngorm reports have been archived on 30th March 2005 and can be found here

For full weather details see Geoff Monks weather reports for the East Highlands here or West here (Adobe PDF reader required)

See the SAIS Cairngorm blog here


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A busy Coire an Lochain Winter Skills on plateau
Hells Lum crag Carn Etchacan & Shelterstone crag

Thursday 28th December 2006...Nice bright day but feeling very cold with the high wind chill. Enjoyable easy climbing and mountaineering on well frozen snow in the high corries such as the unusually popular and busy Coire an Lochain. There has been very little change in the conditions and overall snow cover since before Xmas but with the mild stormy weather forecast for Friday that may well change....!


Mess of Pottage & Jacob's Ladder Aladdin's & Trident gullies
Headwall and Fiacaill areas Coire an Lochain

Wednesday 27th December 2006...Colder up high and greyer but very little change to the well frozen icy snow from Christmas day.


Christmas day walk in to Coire an t-Sneachda A dry black looking Mess of Pottage although Jacob's Ladder was only broken in the middle... Santa and Chilly before their climb with Fiacaill Ridge behind..!
Santa enjoys near on perfect hard neve snow conditions. Chilly is belaying below...! Looking down the trident gullies to the lochan in Coire an t-Sneachda Santa and Chilly enjoy the warm  sunshine on the Cairngorm plateau...!

25th December 2006...Christmas day dawned cold and frosty in the valleys and warmish and sunny on the mountain tops! Despite good dry rock climbing conditions on many of the buttresses such as Pygmy Ridge and the Mess of Pottage the old snow in the gullies and on the plateau is bullet proof hard neve.

Santa and Chilly enjoyed an excellent morning climbing on great snow ice!!! Although most gullies are broken in Coire an t-Sneachda and Coire an Lochain looks a lot better, the snow in the gullies is near on perfect for climbing. Care needs to be taken as there is a lot of loose dry rock where there is incomplete snow cover.

Word of warning - we saw several people on the plateau without ice axes and crampons and while it is possible to avoid most of the hard icy snow patches if you take the right line several popular descent routes are very hard and icy. Even traversing onto the ski piste from the Coire Cas ridge was very very icy at midday and the less experienced Chilly almost came a cropper when she stood on a bit of snow without her crampons...! The plateau and Braeriach still look wintry and quite stunning with most of the snow cover on the easterly aspects whereas the westerly aspects looked positively summery.... Merry Christmas

William Woodhead sent the above photos in: "Thought you might like to see these. Taken from the same spot as the ones I sent you before but one week later. Also an ascent of Prore on Xmas day..."


Frozen Loch Morlich Coire an Lochain Braeriach from Rothiemurchus

Sunday 24th December 2006...It's been absolutely beautiful for the past few days. Today the lower forests remained white and frosty with the little lochains frozen all day. Due to the inversion as you drove higher up to the ski area carpark the temperature rose above freezing. It's feels warmish on the hill when in the sun but many north facing and shaded old snow fields are bullet hard ice with the ground remaining well frozen throughout the day. This has created treacherous icy conditions on some popular descents such as the Goat Track.


In similar conditions a few years ago you could almost rock climb in the sun on dry rock with rock boots and yet still ice climb in the shaded gullies just around the corner. All very alpine and great fun if you pick the right route....

See the NEW SAIS Cairngorm blog here

It was minus 5 and freezing hard in Aviemore at 17:00 hours this evening when Santa's and his reindeer were in town. It will be a nice white Christmas here.  Merry Christmas everyone.


Plateau and Fiacaill Ridge

Saturday 23rd December 2006... Lovely clear sunny day over the Cairngorms. Y Gully and the Couloir look complete. See the NEW SAIS Cairngorm blog here for more info and photographs of Coire an Lochain today. The SAIS avalanche reports can be found here. Please note the warning regarding the Goat Track descent.


Northern Corries 22/12/06

Friday 22nd December 2006...The fine cold weather had to end sometime and it's been milder and windier over the past two days. Many of the crags are black with gully routes such as Jacob's Ladder and Aladdin's Couloir broken in Coire an t-Sneachda. Coire an Lochain looks a lot better. Although the old snow ice in gullies and Coire headwalls will have softened in the milder temperatures it is still hard and icy in places and will  freeze solid with any frost. There's been a spate of accidents and near misses over the past few days due to the hard icy conditions underfoot and serious rocky runouts. The forecast is for it to cool down again and any freeze thaw cycles should help with ice buildup in certain locations? We do need a lot more snow and colder temperatures for decent climbing although there is enough for winter mountaineering and winter walking... See the SAIS Cairngorm blog here for more info and photographs.


Who needs the Alps when you have weather and conditions like this... Secure axe placements in stonking neve with stunning situations... Fantastic views and superb frosty sunsets Scotland...!

Wednesday 20th December 2006...Despite what some of the weather forecasts have been saying the Cairngorms have been experiencing fantastic alpine like conditions of blue skies, sun and very little wind during Tuesday and Wednesday. The snowpack in Corrie an Lochain remained frozen hard all day although the rock was less rimed and blacker than a few days ago. Despite a late start at 2:00 pm we climbed a nice little mixed route high in the Coire on superb rock hard neve, ice and frozen turf. The paths and many slopes are now very icy so good crampon work is essential as it would be very hard to self arrest on some of the steeper approach slopes and descents.


Rab Anderson and Mark Garthwaite on the Vagrant climbers on Vagrant and Fallout Corner in Coire an Lochain Climbers on Short Circuit and Seam
Pygmy Ridge, Central Gully and the Runnel Sparse looking ice in Broken, Red and Goat Track Gullies...! Climbers in Spiral Gully and Fluted Buttress Direct
Fiacaill Buttress, Fiacaill Couloir, Invernookie and the Seam A rather black looking Aladdin's buttress with very thin ice on Mirror Direct Mess of Potage, Jacobs Ladder and 40 Thieves area

Monday 18th December 2002...Another perfect alpine like day. However Coire an t-Sneachda's buttresses are rather black compared to Coire an Lochain but there is snow on the ledges and in the grooves. The snow gullies on the other hand are in great early season condition and even the large threatening cornices above Central and the Runnel were rock solid or easily avoided. A few of the mixed and ice climbs are a bit thin in places such as the ice pitches on Red and Goat Track gullies and the turf is not as well frozen as we would like but if you make the right choice you're sure to have fun... Coire an Lochain is in fantastic condition with the cliffs nicely rimed white and yet the cracks are clear enough for ascents of the likes of Vagrant VII 7. Pete and Donnie were again out and today stormed up Fallout Corner VI 7. Many other routes were being climbed with Ewen Buttress III looking nice. Astroturfer and Milky Way now being reported as good with frozen turf compared the some of the Coire an t-Sneachda routes such as the start of Invernookie. The Couloir grade I is in really good condition though the approach up into the coire and into the gully is harder than the route itself...! Over on the other side of the plateau James Edwards and partner climbed Scorpion on Carn Etchacan. See here for more details. Almost climbable ice is reported to be forming in a few place such as around Hell's Lum and similar crags. Many areas are wind scoured or have rock hard neve but deep slab has been reported on some eastern aspects.

William Woodhead's photo above shows two climbers on a hard looking line left of Migrant called Vagrant VII, 7 and not New Age Traveller as listed in the current guidebook...

The hard looking line of 'The Vagrant' VII, 7 above was climbed by Rab Anderson and Mark Garthwaite. Apparently The Vagrant is incorrectly listed in the current guide as 'New Age Traveller' and mis-graded at VI, 7...!

The latest Scottish guidebooks can now be ordered online directly from the SMC website by clicking here

Chockstone on Fiacaill Couloir Carn Etchacan and Cairngorm plateau Coire an Lochain 18/12/06

Coire an Lochain 17th Dec '06

Sunday 17th December 2006..."We encountered the best conditions so far this season ... "For more info and photos see Pete's MacMountaineering's page. "Grippy hard pack on Marquis Wells with drifted powder pockets on the west side. Ciste Mhearaid had mainly wind packed soft powder lovely...!" From Helen's photo report on the WinterHighland backcountry ski reports. Good pictures of the cover on the Cairngorm plateau here


Saturday 16th December 2006... It's been bright and very cold with any shaded ground remaining partially frozen all day from 400 metres and above. Many of the flooded areas are now proving difficult for the ducks due to ice! The roads and tracks were becoming very icy this evening especially with seepage from the recent flooding. With the snow now freezing hard extra care will need to be taken on any hard icy slopes which will become unforgiving to a simple trip or slip especially as many of the boulder fields are still exposed in places below the crags. Tomorrow looks like a fine day and reports suggest that the approaches are frozen hard and a lot of the easier gullies line such as Jacob's, Aladdin's, Central, Crotched, Runnel and Red are being climbed on hard snow ice though some are a bit thin in places. Despite some reports I doubt if the popular low grade ice gullies such as Red Gully are that good on the ice pitches but I could be wrong. The turf should be firming up nicely for mixed climbing though the cracks may be a bit icy for protection! Any cornices that survived the deluge should be pretty solid by now but watch out for isolated pockets of windslab as it may not be that well bonded to the old snow ice underneath

On the skiing and boarding front recent reports suggest good skiing conditions were fresh powder has been drifting into areas such as the Ciste and Cas though the gun barrel is broken.

If out and about please drop us an email and photos re conditions.


Northern Corries 15/12/06 Ducks on Loch Morlich!

15th December 2006...The weather outlook is very very promising with subzero temperatures and more snow showers for Saturday then the winds dropping on Sunday. This will continue to firm up the snow and re-build the ice hopefully then giving good climbing conditions in the gullies and mixed routes by early next week. The weather forecast looks really good for the start of the week with light winds, low freezing levels and even some sun so start sharpening your picks ....

The Scottish avalanche information service (SAIS) is now up and running and the latest report can be found here though it looks like the Cairngorm Report is a bit muddled with the days and dates though Category 3 risk is forecast for tomorrow I think...!!!

For the boarders and skiers the good news is the ski area has retained it's base and Cairngorm is opening it's top runs tomorrow weather permitting. With more fresh snow forecast on Saturday this should soften up the surface base of old snow ice retained after the thaw. It looks like Coire Cas has retained snow along some of the middle runs between the snow fences and even the traverse, top Cas and gun barrel looked white from afar so if the uplift stops at midstation it may be possible to link the snow all the way to midstation on a good base no promises though...!

Finally thanks to Fi for all the photos of ducks revelling in the conditions, so if you are a duck you know where to come....!!!!

All in all a great start to the winter climbing and skiing season and just in time for the Xmas holiday period... :-)


Northern Corries at 14/12/06 close up at 10:00 am Flooding on Speyside
   
  Flooded on ski road  

Thursday 14th December 2006...The rain stopped this morning, it cleared and the temperature at 10:00 am was 5 degrees in Aviemore. Unbelievably the Cairngorm Northern Corries looked like they had gained more snow in the gullies and headwalls despite the past few days of thaw after the winter storms. The torrential rain has swollen the rivers with widespread flooding along Speyside. The ski road was flooded at the fish farm and water was lapping at the doors of the Old Bridge Inn and the caravan park in Aviemore. The good news is with lower temperatures the snow should start to freeze up and we have a net gain.


Wednesday 13th December 2006...The torrential rain and and an afternoon high of 10 Celsius in Aviemore is taking it's toll on the recent cover of fresh snow in the mountains. It's to be fairly warm overnight before the freezing level drops again later on Thursday. Tomorrow morning should be interesting just to see how much of the snow pack has survived. I'm pretty certain that the main easier main gully lines and Coire headwalls will retain a good depth of old snow to refreeze and build-up to provide good sport at the weekend. Tomorrow will tell but one thing is certain that with all the flooding, wet snow and saturated ground any prolonged spell of cold weather should provide good snow ice conditions...!


Tuesday 12th December 2006...Conditions at the moment are very stormy and the Cairngorms are being severely wind scoured with drifts of fresh windslab building in lee aspects. The main Coire headwalls and gullies survived Sundays thaw well and have now refrozen. On Monday the buttresses were very black but last night and today Tuesday we've had lots of heavy snow showers down to quite low levels. There's a bit of a thaw forecast for later on in the week before it cools down again and the outlook is looking promising. We do need several days of hard frost though as with only one or two days slight frost such as last weekend only the snow surface will freeze up creating a breakable crust. Last weekend the cornices while fairly big in places were by no mean anything unusual for a normal winter. The bulk of the cornices, upper slopes and gullies were pretty well consolidated towards the top with good neve in places on Saturday. It was soft in many of the approaches though and the turf not really frozen at the weekend. Overall the build-up is very good for the time of year and great for winter mountaineering.


Sunday 10th December 2006...Mild wet and stormy today although the bulk of the rain compared to the west and south didn't arrive in the north east until early evening. Cairngorm weather station recorded summit temperature of plus 4 Celsius by mid afternoon and there has been some superficial snow loss but overall  a brief thaw and refreeze should consolidate the deeper drifts without too much loss. Mondays forecast is for the freezing level to drop to 650 metres but with 40 to 50 mph winds and gusts to 75 from the west, southwest and with snow showers mainly west. A day to stay in front of the fire...!


Saturday 9th December 2006...Lots of climbing and even skiing being done although it wasn't quite as cold as hoped for and the bottom of many routes were still very soft. Conditions varied from wind scoured soft neve to knee deep powder depending on the aspect and the route climbed. I spoke to several climbers who'd been on routes such as the Slant, Jacob's, Aladdin's, Crotched and Spiral in Coire an t-Sneachda and on Milky Way and Oesophagus in Coire an Lochain. Most reported that the snow was still quite soft and the turf unfrozen underneath. The general conclusion is that climbing conditions are fair but not brilliant as one would expect at early season. There are some reasonable sized cornices on Jacob's, Crotched and other north aspects which proved entertaining or worrying to those climbing them OR retreating. Mention was made of pockets of deep slabby snow on some crag aprons in Coire an Lochain and powder on Milky Way.

I can report that the upper pitches of Aladdin's and the Mirror are filled with reasonable firmish snow although the approach and narrows were quite soft. There was very little thick ice build-up in the gullies although the upper buttresses and cracks were quite icy and thinly rimed. The plateaux is wind scoured with deep drifts in places. Very little build-up reported on Hells Lum or on the Shelterstone crag.

The upper ski runs in Coire Na Ciste and the Ptarmigan were open today providing good if somewhat expensive skiing with fresh snow on the old base. It was possible to ski down via the traverse and upper zig zags before the cover thinned out. Nice powder reported off piste in Ciste Mhearid. On return from point 1141 there is good firm snow all the way down where cornices have built up along side the Coire Cas rim and along the line of the old Fiacaill tow snow fences. This is good for the old knees and toes though don't stray too close to the edge....!


Potage & Jacob's 071206 Aladdin's from a full lochan Aladdin's, Fluted and Goat track
 
Fiacaill area 07/12/06 Drift on north aspect at 3,000ft  

7th December 2006...We've now had a lot of melt freeze cycles at around 3,000 ft for the past few weeks and the snow build-up is starting to look really good in the the Cairngorms FOR THE FUTURE! There's NO real ICE but all the main gully line are now full of WET snow. So we need a few days of HARD FROST to freeze and bring everything into REASONABLE climbing condition. Although the easier gully lines are still quite thin they are complete and when FROZEN will provide good sport for EXPERIENCED climbers...!

People have been climbing the easier grades ones such as Jacob's, Aladdin's, Central and the Runnel with very mixed reports. The turf is currently very soft and wet and the coire lochan's very full so any turf dependant routes are best avoided until properly frozen.

Cornices and wind slab (AVALANCHE RISK!) were noted on some north aspects and many of the loose blocks and rubble in the Cairngorms gullies are LOOSE BLOCK AND RUBBLE when not frozen in, so take care and don't climb below others...!!!!

We now have plenty of snow for our New Year snow holing, winter skills and mountaineering courses... See Talisman Winter Mountaineering


A flooded Loch Morlich 4/12/06 Northern Corries 4/12/06

Monday 4th December 2006...Back home to very wet and windy weather with widespread flooding. The good news is that the mountains tops and corries have been getting a fair amount of wet snow that has been filling up the Cairngorm gully lines, corrie headwalls and sheltered hollows. This fresh snow is continuing to  build up on the old snow base that remained after November's winter storms. Once the stormy weather dies down some of the easier gully lines should come into condition fairly quickly with a bit of a frost. Well that's the theory...!


The next reports on this page will be in early December when it will be nice to report that winter  conditions are really building up. In the meantime were off to enjoy some hot rock climbing ;-)

Tuesday 14th November 2006...The Cairngorm are now looking white again after a dusting of fresh snow. The cover is still very thin and cosmetic but it's a beautiful blue sky sunny autumn day for hill walking between the showers! The turf is not frozen for climbing and there's no deep snow for skiing but plenty of time for that later when winter fully arrives...

Monday 13th November 2006...Warmer last night and today The Cairngorm are brown again but all is not lost as a few of the deeper drifts have survived and are of a reasonable size in some of the higher east facing sheltered hollows and gullies. The temperature on the summits were just above freezing so the ground will still be cooling down and will freeze up a bit quicker to retain any future snowfalls for longer.


Coire an t-Sneachda 12/11/06 Corniced drift on burn east aspect
   
Climbers on Mess of Potage? Coire an Lochain 12/11/06

Sunday 12th November 2006...Today was less windy but relatively mild, soft and wet underfoot. The buttresses certainly weren't rimed and were mostly black with thin strips of wet snow in gully and slushy ice in drainage lines. The only areas with any reasonable depth of snow were isolated patches on easterly aspects in sheltered hollows and gully lines where small cornices were found. Coire an Lochain was whiter than Coire an t-Sneachda. Most of the superficial snow will melt tomorrow but if we are lucky some of the deeper drifts and cornices on easterly aspect may survive to provide a base for the next snowfall.


Saturday 11th November 2006... It's very stormy and has been snowing on and off all day. The Cairngorms are now looking their whitest this season with the snow level now at around 700 metres. While many exposed areas and ridges are being wind scoured a lot of the snow is being blown into the main climbing and skiing areas, especially so on sheltered easterly aspects. It'll be interesting to see how much has built up and if it survives the slight thaw tomorrow and early next week before the next period of cold weather arrives. If it does survive in some of the gully lines that would be great but... There was not a hard freeze before the rain and snowfall arrived so climbing conditions will likely be poor with soft wet snow over soft wet ground and a lot of loose rubble on the easier routes. A photo of Coire an t-Sneachda today can be found on the Winter Highland site at http://www.winterhighland.info/forum/file.php?2,file=1175

Friday 10th November 2006... Milder temperatures and heavy rain washed the snow ALL away on Friday! It's now getting colder and stormier with more snow forecast.

Thursday 9th November 2006... The temperatures on Cairngorm are sub zero again with the hills again looking white. It warms up slightly tomorrow but the forecast for the next few days look relatively cold for the tops. This will further cool down the ground and help any future snow and ice build-up.

Saturday 4th November 2006... Temperatures above freezing on the tops and plus 11 in Aviemore have completely stripped any rime from the crags. There were a few thin strips of water ice hanging on the higher buttresses and great slab this afternoon but these will have melt by Sunday. I forgot to put my memory card in the camera today so no photos but believe me the the crags were black today.

Before any more emails arrive regarding the Cairngorm Mountain webcams and a perceived Scottish conspiracy to prevent southerners from enjoying the great Scottish skiing and climbing conditions!!  We don't maintain them but provide a direct link to them. The Cairngorm Mountain webcams were linked to an old Cairngorm Mountain website that has now been removed, unfortunately they don't link to the new website now or so the story goes and we don't know when they will work again yet...!

3rd November 2006....No overnight frost and fairly warm and sunny today. Unfortunately most of the white stuff will have melted by the weekend. A few keen and very experienced climbers grabbed a couple of the technical rock routes 1st thing at the top of Coire an Lochain before the rime melted. See http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=210621 for full details It was also a nice day for low level rock climbing on dry rock though...!


 
 
Coire an Lochain 2nd Nov 2006 close-up of Coire an Lochain  
 
  climbers on Pygmy Ridge Steve and Fi on Cairn Lochain

Thursday 2nd November 2006...The Cairngorms have been looking wintry for the past few days after a very light dusting of snow and two or three days of frost. However in the mountains the snow depth is less than a cm and the wintry appearance is due more to the rimed up grass and rock than snow. The original weather forecast of very low temperatures has been disappointing as the high pressure system has moved south with temperature this morning of plus 4 degrees Celsius at 09:00 am in Aviemore and just on freezing on the plateau. After temperatures in double figures and a few days of slight frost the turf looks white but is generally very soft and unfrozen. There's a bit of thin ice on seepage lines and absolutely NO snow build-up. A few folk have been out pretending to be winter climbing and Hoarmaster was reported as been climbed yesterday. Today Pete McPherson of MacMountaineering saw folks on Oesophagus and we saw a pair on Pygmy Ridge. This MAYBE more acceptable on pure rock routes routes that do not have any vegetation such as Pygmy but definitely a complete no no on any of the gully or turfy routes such as Oesophagus which will get completely trashed. Personally I wouldn't bother winter climbing until conditions really warrant it as I'm sure some of the rock routes could still be done with big boots and gloved hands...!!


 
afternoon in Coire an t-Sneachda Coire an Lochain's great slab looks like a mini glacier no wind blue skies and late afternoon sun on Aladdin' Buttress this IS Scottish summer climbing at it's best!!
very alpine with Walter belaying in the bergschrund and Fi climbing first pitch... Watty starts pitch three the crux a long sustained 5a crux  pitch...!
Looking down the long HVS 5a crux pitch? Fi seconding the very well protected finger crack...! Fi on tricky technical upper crux after the finger crack...
   
  A happy Watty abbing off...  

10th June 2006...It's been summer recently and absolutely stunning conditions on some of the Cairngorm rock routes.

The above photos were taken on Magic Crack on Friday 9th June on a route many regard as one of the best summer rock routes in the Cairngorms. It is also a winter test piece and the recent popularity of winter ascents and dry tooling has very badly damaged the rock by wearing away the sharp granite holds and polishing white the rock making the route more precarious in rock boots. There's now more friction off route on the bare slabs that haven't been scarred by axes and crampons. I'm not anti dry tooling or bolting, in fact far from it as it has it's place but certainly not on such a good rock route as Magic Crack.

The approach to many of the the great Classic Rock routes still involve crossing some sizable snow patches and bridging the bergschrunds and crevasses....!

Although winter has ended for the time being though there is still scope for the odd easy gully ascent or descent yet!!


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